Book: The Stars of Alsace, Fernand Mischler and Maurice Roeckel
Armed with their first cousin – and they do not hide – the Alsatians are willing to believe a little superior to other French, those of the interior, in this case, while, at the same time, between the Vosges and Rhine, they experience in their regard, paradoxically, as a feeling of inferiority. By dint of having made these brave Alsatians believe that he was really “chic” only from Paris, they deduced, logically from Cartesian logic, that he could not be a good beaker. than from Alsace. For if there is one area where, without complex, since the dawn of time, my compatriots do not doubt for a moment their incontestable superiority, it is that of gastronomy and pleasures of the table.
Already Curnonsky, the elected prince of gastronomes, had proclaimed it loud and clear in the last century, saluting in Alsace
“all the great culinary and gastronomic traditions by which it is attached to the country which has raised the kitchen to the dignity of a great art – to France! “The very austere Michelin comes annually mathematically confirm this supremacy with a total of stars awarded – between 30 and 35, year after year – much higher than in other regions of France, when it refers to number of inhabitants. Alsace now has a host of starred chefs who cultivate, seduce and sublimate Alsatian gastronomy by competing for creativity.
The Auberge de l’Ill, three stars for fifty years, is certainly the flagship, the most famous flagship.
“Nothing seems so beautiful to the French as to see the taste of their cooks reigning from the north to the south,” observed Montesquieu already in his Persian Letters . Taking it at the word, Fernand Mischler and Maurice Roeckel bring us the proof, if I dare say by … the menu, in the work that they sign to the Editions du Signe.
A hundred miles from traditional cookbooks, this ode to Alsatian gastronomy is an invitation to pleasure where chefs and master craftsmen literally let go, imagining each and every recipe from their repertoire, served by an iconography of Karine Faby, of all splendor.
One salivates just by turning the pages, between the zucchini scales zander, the marbled duck foie gras, the crispy piglet with the woodruff, the frog muslin, the savarin of crayfish with herring caviar, without forget … the Munster drunk with cream.
At the Table des Etoiles d’Alsace, gluttony is not an ugly sin, at best a pretty flaw, because after all, “we are what we eat”, according to the saying of Brillat-Savarin …
And when, your feasts ended, the chef will come to greet you, you are no longer the anonymous customer of an air-conditioned fast food but you have become, during a meal, a friend invited to the table d’hôte. Esch des nix , she is not beautiful, life?